Posts Tagged ‘landscape’

A Few Facts about Landscape Gardening

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Landscape gardening represents the special decoration of the outdoor area around the house so as to meet certain style characteristics. It was during the 19th century that the concept became popular. The English first imposed the trend which is why people often speak of ‘English Gardens’ when in fact referring to landscaping. Many home owners will hire professionals for fanciful decorations while do-it-yourself options will always be cheaper.

Landscape gardening is carried out by cutting the lawn and the hedges in a peculiar way depending on your taste. Fountains, statues, alleys, flowers, bridges and lights then provide the essential substance to work on. There are companies that prefer to change the landscape of the surrounding outdoor area by hiring professional designers to preserve the same colors all year round.

The flowers, bushes and trees are incredibly important for landscape gardening. The most daring of effects can be achieved by working on these elements. Thus, when you cultivate the flower beds you can choose complementing colors or you can make patterns by careful plant arrangement. Landscape gardening is not possible with plenty of work, time and effort. River rocks, gravel, sand and carved wood make great matches in landscape gardening too, if you know how to exploit every detail into your advantage.

Normally, landscape gardening is different depending on the alternation night-day. And the outdoor lighting system contributes to the modifications and the look of the garden immensely. Everything falls into shadow at night, but with light fixtures placed in strategic locations, you can achieve some things of incredible beauty. For instance, use small lights to show the way along the alleys, and create a touch of mystery by hiding the lights in the background.

The choice of the furniture, the porch or the gazebo further contribute to the impact of landscape gardening. Adapt every element to the features of the house and the size of the garden for the best effects possible. The main purpose of landscape gardening should not be that of showing off but rather of creating an atmosphere that you love. Personal satisfaction and comfort definitely come first here!

By using pest control instead of chemicals, you can get rid of pests from your garden more safety. You can check out the reviews about this pest control on ultrasonic pest control site, where you can get useful information on ladybug pest control option. Compared with all the other methods, using this pest control will be the most convenient and eco-friendly method.

Rye Grass- Get green grass throughout the year

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Keeping your grass green all winter long can be a challenge. Most home owners would love to have a green lawn throughout the fall and winter, but how do you make this a reality? Rye grass is what you need to keep your lawn beautiful all year long. You have to over seed your regular grass with Rye grass preferably in the summer heat. Rye grass is also considered cool grass which also helps to prevent the invasion of aggressive winter weeds. Burton on trent gardener

Perennial ryegrass is the preferred cool season grass for over seeding regular Burmuda grass lawns. Many new types of perennial ryegrass are available. These new types are fine textured and form a dense, attractive lawn. They are also frost tolerant and will persist longer in the spring, allowing time for the Burmuda grass to green up.

Carefully preparation of the lawn prior to over seeding is the key to success. In order to germinate and grow, the seed must come in contact with the soil. A dense Burmuda grass lawn will need to be lightly verticut or power-raked to remove the mat of dead grass plants, called thatch, which accumulates in the lawn. This work is best left to a professional lawn or landscape maintenance service. If you have a small lawn area you can remove some of the thatch by hand-raking with a steel-tined lawn rake.

After raking, scalp the Burmuda grass by cutting it as low as possible. Then remove the thatch and clippings. With some space opened up in the lawn, the seed that is spread will be able to drop through to the soil surface.

You can apply the seed by hand, but for better uniformity use a drop spreader or cyclone spreader. Seeding the lawn in a cris-cross pattern will also help provide a more uniform stand of grass. Whether you’re using perennial or annual ryegrass, apply 12 to 15 lbs. of seed for an area of 1,000 square feet. After spreading the seed, use a strong spray of water to help wash the seed down to the soil surface. To help retain moisture and encourage seed sprouting, fine compost or steer manure can be lightly spread over the area. A leaf rake or broom can be used to evenly distribute this top dressing and work it down through the Burmuda grass.

Keep seeds moist until they germinate and become established. This may require watering several times daily, with just enough water to keep the top 2 inch of soil wet. When the grass becomes established, watering should be reduced gradually to about once a week. During the coldest part of the winter the grass may not need water more than once every two weeks. When the grass reaches a height of 2 inches, mow the turf to 1.5 inches. Gradually increase the height of cut to maintain the grass at a height of 2.5 inches. A rotary type mower can be used, making sure to keep the blades sharp.

Begin fertilizing 2 weeks after seedlings sprout. Apply 4 lbs. of a lawn fertilizer such as 16-4-8 or similar analysis for every 1,000 square feet of lawn. After the initial fertilization, apply 1 to 2 lbs of lawn fertilizer per 1,000 square feet, every 3 or 4 weeks. If the lawn is green at the time of a scheduled fertilization, skip that fertilization.

By following these steps of over seeding now, you will be creating a beautiful cool season lawn that will last well into spring. Landscaper Burton

After the second mowing, apply one-half pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet using a complete fertilizer, such as 16-4-8, 10-10-10 or others. Apply complete, quick-release nitrogen in late winter or early spring. Pythium blight disease can be a problem on over watered, over fertilized ryegrass, especially during warm, humid weather.

An established winter lawn requires the same maintenance as a permanent lawn. Mow when the grass is tall enough to cut, about 1 to 2 inches. Mow to 1 to 1½ inches thereafter whenever the grass reaches 2 to 2½ inches. Make sure the mower blade is sharp to prevent ripping of the ryegrass. If ryegrass is properly fertilized, weekly mowing may be necessary. So if you want to keep up a summer time routine in the winter add ryegrass to your lawn. You will be mowing all year round but your yard will look wonderful. You will have nice green color all year long.

Maintaining A Hydroponics Vegetables Greenhouse

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Hydroponics is not only an easily-learned method of growing, it is also simple to sustain and is completely eco friendly. Would starting a vegetable greenhouse using hydroponics be an option? Even small children have been taught to practice hydroponics in a classroom setting and if they can do it, so can you. 

Hydroponics Is Really Healthy For The Environment And For Your Family As Well

When you grow using the hydroponics method, you save water, reduce the amount of pesticides and herbicides released into the environment and have a constant supply of fresh fruit and vegetables. Lettuce, tomatoes, chilli peppers, bean sprouts are just some of the examples of easy crops to grow. 

When you choose a hydroponics vegetables greenhouse, you will be able to enjoy vegetables and fruits all year round.  Imagine having all the fresh herbs you want.  You can have a continuous supply of your favorite herbs such as basil, oregano, thyme, chives, chervil, parsley, sorrel, mint, sage, cilantro and dill and many other herbs. 

Advantages Of Using Hydroponics

A couple of advantages that the hydroponics growing method has over conventional field crops is that the roots are always exposed to oxygen, water and nutrients in a controlled environment.  Instead of setting up a sprinkler system or hauling the hose around outside, you can conserve water by growing your plants using the hydroponics growing method. 

For a field crop, the quality of its exposure to water will determine how much oxygen the plants are getting.  Not enough water and the plant will dry up from too much air and oxygen while too much water will not let the plant gets the oxygen it needs.  A crop field can compete with a hydroponics plant for growth only if the soil and watering system is excellent.

Air Fertilization for your Greenhouse

There are some special considerations that are involved with a hydroponics vegetables greenhouse and that includes the fact that during the winter, the levels of carbon dioxide can be lower in the middle of the hydroponics vegetables greenhouse and that means those center plants will not grow as much as the others.  You can remedy this through the practice of enriching the greenhouse atmosphere with carbon dioxide, a practice known as air fertilization. 

No gardening experience is necessary to reap the full benefits of a hydroponics vegetables greenhouse. To meet the requirements of the family a hydroponic vegetable greenhouse will provide you with the controlled environment you will need.

Touch Up Your Landscape Gardening

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Landscape gardening has often been likened to the painting of a picture. Your art-work teacher often told you that a good picture should have a point of central interest, and the rest of the points simply go to make the central idea more attractive, or to form a fine setting for it. So in landscape gardening there must be in the gardener’s mind a picture of what he desires the whole to be when he completes his work.

From this study we shall be able to work out a little theory of landscape gardening.

Let us go to the yard. A good extent of open lawn space is always beautiful. It is restful. It adds a feeling of space to even small grounds. We can say that it is well to keep open lawn spaces. If one covers his lawn space with many trees, with little flower beds here and there, the general effect is choppy and fussy. It is a bit like an over-dressed person. One’s grounds lose all individuality thus treated. A single tree or a small group is not a bad arrangement on the lawn. Do not centre the tree or trees. Let them drop a bit into the background. Make it looks pleasing. In choosing trees one must keep in mind a number of things. You should not choose an overpowering tree; the tree should be one of good shape, with something interesting about its bark, leaves, flowers or fruit. While the poplar is a rapid grower, it sheds its leaves early and so is left standing, bare and ugly, before the fall is old. Mind you, there are places where a row or double row of Lombardy poplars is very effective. But I think you’ll agree with me that one lone poplar is not. The catalpa is quite lovely by itself. Its leaves are broad, its flowers attractive, the seed pods which cling to the tree until away into the winter, add a bit of picture squeness. The bright berries of the ash, the brilliant foliage of the sugar maple, the blossoms of the tulip tree, the bark of the white birch, and the leaves of the copper beech all these are beauty points to consider.

Place makes a difference in the selection of a tree. Suppose the lower portion of the grounds is a bit low and moist, then the spot is ideal for a willow. Don’t group trees together which look awkward. A long-looking poplar does not go with a nice rather rounded little tulip tree. A juniper, so neat and prim, would look silly beside a spreading chestnut. One must keep proportion and suitability in mind.

I’d never advise the planting of a group of evergreens close to a house, and in the front yard. The effect is very gloomy indeed. Houses thus surrounded are overcapped by such trees and are not only gloomy to live in, but truly unhealthful. The chief requisite inside a house is sunlight and plenty of it.

As trees are chosen because of certain good points, so shrubs should be. In a clump I should wish some which bloomed early, some which bloomed late, some for the beauty of their fall foliage, some for the colour of their bark and others for the fruit. Some spireas and the forsythia bloom early. The red bark of the dogwood makes a bit of colour all winter, and the red berries of the barberry cling to the shrub well into the winter. 

Certain shrubs are good to use for hedge purposes. A hedge is rather prettier usually than a fence. The Californian privet is excellent for this purpose. Osage orange, Japan barberry, buckthorn, Japan quince, and Van Houtte’s spirea are other shrubs which make good hedges.

I forgot to say that in tree and shrub selection it is usually better to choose those of the locality one lives in. In new surrounding, Unusual and foreign plants will not live well.

Landscape gardening may follow along very formal lines or along informal lines. The first would have straight paths, straight rows in stiff beds, everything, as the name tells, perfectly formal. The other method is, of course, the exact opposite. There are danger points in each.

The formal arrangement is likely to look too stiff; the informal, too fussy, too wiggly. As far as paths go, keep this in mind, that a path should always lead somewhere. That is its business to direct one to a definite place. Now, straight, even paths are not unpleasing if the effect is to be that of a formal garden. Curved path is dangerous. It is far better for you to stick to straight paths unless you can make a really beautiful curve. No one can tell you how to do this.

Garden paths may be of dirt, of gravel, or of grass. One sees grass paths in some very lovely gardens. I doubt, however, if they would serve as well in your small gardens. Your garden areas are so limited that they should be re-spaded each season, and the grass paths are a great bother in this work. Of course, a gravel path makes a fine appearance, but again you may not have gravel at your command. It is possible for any of you to dig out the path for two feet. Then put in six inches of stone or clinker. Over this, pack in the dirt, rounding it slightly toward the centre of the path. There should never be depressions through the central part of paths, since these form convenient places for water to stand. The under layer of stone makes a natural drainage system.

A building often needs the help of vines or flowers or both to tie it to the grounds in such a way as to form a harmonious whole. Vines lend themselves well to this work. It is better to plant a perennial vine, and let it form a permanent part of your landscape scheme. The Virginia creeper, wistaria, honeysuckle, a climbing rose, the clematis and trumpet vine are all most satisfactory.

Close your eyes and picture a house of natural colour, that mellow gray of the weathered shingles. Now add to this old house a purple wistaria. Can you see the beauty of it? I shall not forget soon a rather ugly corner of my childhood home, where the dining room and kitchen met. Just there climbing over, and falling over a trellis was a trumpet vine. It made beautiful an awkward angle, an ugly bit of carpenter work.

Of course, the morning-glory is an annual vine, as is the moon-vine and wild cucumber. Now, these have their special function. For often, it is necessary to cover an ugly thing for just a time, until the better  things and better times come. The annual is ‘the chap’ for this work.

Along an old fence a hop vine is a thing of beauty. One might try to challenge the forest’ landscape work. For often one sees festooned from one rotted tree to another the ampelopsis vine.

Flowers can suitly go along the side of the building, or bordering a walk. In general, though, keep the front lawn space open and unbroken by beds. What lovelier in early spring than a bed of daffodils close to the house? Hyacinths and tulips, too, form a blaze of glory. These are little or no bother, and start the spring aright. One may make of some bulbs an exception to the rule of unbroken front lawn. Snowdrops and crocuses planted through the lawn are beautiful. They do not disturb the general effect, but just blend with the whole. One expert bulb gardener says to take a basketful of bulbs in the fall, walk about your grounds, and just drop bulbs out here and there. Wherever the bulbs drop, plant them. Such small bulbs as those we plant in lawns should be in groups of four to six. Daffodils may be thus planted, too. You all remember the grape hyacinths that grow all through Katharine’s side yard.

The area for a flower garden is generally at the side or back of the house. The backyard garden is a lovely idea, is it not? Who wish to leave a beautiful looking front yard, turn the corner of a house, and find a dump heap? Not me. The flower garden can be laid out formally in neat little beds, or it may be more of a careless, hit-or-miss sort. Both have their good points. Great masses of bloom are attractive.

You should have imagine the blending of colour in mind. Nature appears not to consider this at all, and still gets wondrous effects. This is because of the tremendous amount of her perfect background of green, and the limitlessness of her space, while we are confined at the best to relatively small areas. So we should endeavour not to blind people’s eyes with clashes of colours which do not at close range blend well. In order to break up extremes of colours you can always use masses of white flowers, or something like mignonette, which is in effect green.

To end this, let us sum up our landscape lesson. The grounds are a setting for the house or buildings. Open, free lawn spaces, a tree or a proper group well placed, flowers which do not clutter up the front yard, groups of shrubbery these are points to be remembered. The paths should go somewhere, and be either straight or well curved. If one starts with a formal garden, one should not mix the informal with it before the work is done. Happy Gardening.

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